Tag Archive for ideal

The Ideal Gym – pt.2 – Boulders for strength and technique

Sheffield's extraordinaire Shauna Coxsey bouldering © bergleben.deA bouldering wall is the basic structure on which you can train proper climbing movement and therefore elements of climbing performance such as strength, power and technique.
Yet, not many climbing walls make the best of their boulder walls, often sacrificing them under a number of aspects in favour of their taller brothers: the walls for rope climbing.
But here are a few great things that we have observed across various gyms and that we are now putting together for you.


Photo: Shauna Coxsey at the 2013 Boulder WC stage of Munich © bergleben.de


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The Ideal Gym – pt. 1 – Upper Body Conditioning

WoGü-fingerHow complete and systematic is your climbing wall? How good is it for training? As you try to answer these questions, you might realise that you are not too sure how to measure how good its structures are. A possible approach would be to see how far they are from an ideal gym, a place that has it all. Consequently, this is probably a good time to sit down and try to figure out what an ideal gym should be like.
Strong of our travelling experience and the advice of experienced coaches and sport therapists, we have decided to distill our knowledge in a series of articles that aim at creating a benchmark useful to anyone planning to build or renew a climbing wall.

Photo: The 9a fingers of Wolfgang Güllich at work © Thomas Ballenberger
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